Said the Ramp to the TableApril 30, 2012
Where am I?
You are here. In Union Square. At the Greenmarket. In New York City.
Where is that?
I’m not entirely sure. I just know it’s here.
Do I live here now?
You do. Not for long, though.
How do you know?
Because I’m a table. I know these things.
Am I a table?
No, you are not a table.
What am I then?
You’re a ramp.
Is that a good thing?
It’s neither good nor bad. You just are.
But they’re looking at me and they’re… ?
I suppose. Yes. You call it cooing? Why are they cooing?
Because you are a harbinger of summer.
I thought I was a ramp.
You are. They are cooing because they came here for you. Because you are evocative and they are forlorn.
What if I don’t want to be evocative?
You have no choice. In April, as a ramp, in Union Square, you are evocative.
But I miss the soil.
So do they.
HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO DO (and hurry up because ramp season is ending):
Clean, dry, and chop the green tops. Put them in a blender with olive oil (about 1 part ramp top to 4 parts olive oil). Blend until you have a pesto, then season very lightly with salt. Set aside. Season sea scallops with a little salt and pepper, and cook over high heat in a heavy-gauge skillet until caramelized on both top and bottom. Serve over the ramp pesto.
Use the bottoms as you would onions with sauteed potatoes, or pickle them, or mince them in guacamole, or grill them. Experiment and coo.
TAGS Fish and Seafood